Behind the Pass: Chef Chris dos Reis

There is a definite shift happening in the culinary world of New Orleans, with a new generation of chefs taking the city into a bright future. To punctuate that point, the Michelin Guide just released its first American South ratings and while there were 10 one-star restaurants, there was only one two-star selection. That distinction went to 22-year-old E.J. Lagasse for the reinvention of his father’s flagship 35-year-old restaurant in New Orleans, Emeril’s. E.J. also became the youngest chef to earn 2 Michelin stars, while being named the winner of the American South Young Chef Award.  

That’s not the only thing that the Lagasse’s have going on in NOLA. The newest addition to their family of restaurants is 34—named for the father, Emeril John III, and the son, Emeril John IV. When they collaborated on 34 Restaurant & Bar, a culinary homage to their Portuguese roots, it was a deliberate choice to bring somethin unique to the NOLA food scene. This is the first Emeril restaurant dedicated to the cuisine of his Portuguese heritage, inspired by his late mother, Hilda, who influenced his interest in cooking when he was a child. 

To pull it off, they needed the right chef. E.J. was keeping up with Chef Chris dos Reis as he documented his dishes on Instagram, posting from the renowned kitchens he worked in, like Denmark’s Kadeau, Fäviken in Sweden, Momofuko Ko, Aska in Brooklyn, and Blue Hill at Stone Barns. The New York native is also descendant of Portuguese immigrants and had been exploring the cuisine, both at home and cooking at pop-ups across Portugal. With his deep roots in the culture, and the skills he honed around the world, Chris was a natural fit for the new concept.  

The Menu  

34 transports guests from the heart of New Orleans to the vibrant streets of Lisbon, with a lush decor that balances the modern with notes of the traditional. A painting of a rooster, a national Portuguese symbol of good luck, and the ornate tiles for which Portugal has become famous accent the restaurant. The open kitchen wafts fragrant wood smoke that greets you at the door.  

The menu is built with the intention of sharing. Like tapas in Spain, Portugal has petiscos, small dishes served with drinks that reflect local flavors and the convivial lifestyle. Highlights at 34 include clams in vinho verde, arroz de pato with chourico and mushrooms, salt cod fritters, and the prego—a steak sandwich served in small slices.  True to the seafaring spirit of Portugal, there are many seafood dishes, true to the seafaring spirit of Portugal, from bacalhau to the ever-present cured jamon, and pasteis de nata, the Portuguese custard cup with flaky pastry crust that makes the perfect finish to any meal or happy hour. 

The dynamic beverage program, with a heavy focus on Portuguese and Spanish wines and spirits, can perhaps be best enjoyed in the secret speakeasy room (find it if you can). The restaurant also has a DJ booth and emphasizes the dreamy, relaxed music of Portugal, which slips right into the Big Easy music scene.  

Eating Blue at 34  

Fortune co-hosted a special dinner and book launch party at 34 Restaurant and Bar just last week. The Blue Food Cookbook: Delicious Recipes for a Sustainable Future by Chefs Andrew Zimmern and Barton Seaver is a seafood bible that is aligned with Fortune’s mission. It is a tangible, delicious cookbook for how to best buy, prepare, and cook from our oceans and waterways sustainably. We believe this book will help many—from chefs to home cooks—make smarter seafood decisions.  

Chef Chris collaborated on the menu for a four-course dinner that showcased sustainable seafood choices and Portuguese flavors. Fortune CEO Sean O’Scannlain attended the event, along with members of our local NOLA team. 

Only days later, and before the flavors of the evening could fade, the Michelin Guide recognized 34 Restaurant & Bar on their recommended list for NOLA eateries. The restaurant just celebrated its one-year anniversary, and the accolades are rolling in. So, next time you’re in the neighborhood, try eating something unexpected.  

Under Chef Chris, 34 Restaurant & Bar strikes a unique note in a city known for a specific culinary culture. It’s the dawning of a new era for this legendary foodie town, and Chef Chris is making the Crescent City his own. Keep an eye on him!  

Watch our short interview with him: